(Primitivo di Goia, Crljenak Kasteljanski, Pribidrag, Tribidrag)

Zinfandel is a variety with a most confusing history and lineage. Its origins have been hotly disputed for years and until recently Zinfandel was thought to have originated in southern Italy's Apulia region, where the genetically related Primitivo (di Goia) variety is widely grown. Further research suggested a possible parent/offspring relationship with the Plavic Mali grape from Croatia. What is now generally agreed upon is that the roots of Zinfandel (as well as Primitivo) are most likely in the Dalmatian province of Croatia (in the former Yugoslavia) where DNA matches have been made with a variety locally known by the name of Crljenak Kasteljanski (also Pribidrag or Tribidrag). The genetic linkage and similar origins of Italy’s Primitivo and California’s Zinfandel has been supported by the work of both Croatian and UC Davis researchers. However, despite being genetically alike, over the long period they have spent geographically separated, clonal differences seem to have evolved between the two. And true enough, notable differences are evident in both vine and wine characteristics of Italy’s Primitivo and California’s Zinfandel.

In terms of Zinfandel’s wine style, the story is equally provocative. Opinions about how to classify this grape have also shifted continuously, as consumer whims have tested Zinfandel’s ability to play the chameleon. Zinfandel has delivered not only zesty, berry-fruity reds, but spicy tannic beasts, vin nouveau, and tart, intriguing roses. There have also been soft, simple and sweet blushes, unusual sparklers, dessert and fortified wines, and nearly combustible, highly-alcoholic versions. Zinfandel has always found ways to remain useful and to maintain its plantings in California, even as fickle consumer tastes bounce from one style to the next. Most have crowned Cabernet Sauvignon as King in California. However, Zinfandel is the only red varietal that comes close to Cabernet in total acreage and volume of fruit crushed. Fortunately, Zinfandel has finally become trendy, and after years of playing second fiddle, it is taking much of the spotlight. The variety is currently planted just about everywhere across the state, in a wide range of climactic zones. It reaches its height in the ancient plantings of Amador County’s Sierra Foothills, and in northern Sonoma venues like Dry Creek, Geyserville and Lytton Springs. Outside of California, a scattering of Zinfandel plantings exist in southern Oregon, Mexico, and South America, and as a curiosity in the odd Australian and South African vineyard.